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[PCB设计] 冷转印电路板

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发表于 2017-1-16 22:04 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
本帖最后由 7r093 于 2017-1-16 22:09 编辑

隔离论坛看到的冷转印电路板,和热转印区别是用化学方法丙酮+乙醇溶解淡粉到覆铜板上。
http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XMTkyMTYxMTcyMA==.html
怎么直接插入视频?
发表于 2017-1-16 22:30 | 显示全部楼层
不错,材料简单,只需要普通的激光打印机,就是不知道碳粉容不容易掉
发表于 2017-1-16 22:35 | 显示全部楼层
本帖最后由 钟义亭 于 2017-1-17 18:02 编辑

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不錯的  ,  碳粉很難 用手工 印在紙上 ,  我試過
是抓點碳粉 ,  去黏上紙  , 粉內的膠 很難控制
沒膠 ,  就電池棒的 碳棒 就行了

要雷射加溫  標準配套  ,  一定要熱塑機的


https://youtu.be/qvpB1VI9470?t=11


銅版紙 的特點在於紙張平整細滑(600~1200s),
在印刷時能使印版與紙張產生更緊密的接觸,使油墨附著的部份能夠均勻的分佈,
不會因為表面層的關係造成網點產生落點的錯位,
更可以使網點完全性的複製轉印出來。紙張白度(平均85%以上)、光澤度高,
在色彩的表現上能夠充份表現出銳利度和明顯的對比色,而且紙張油墨再現性高,
加上油墨乾燥的速度快,所以印刷時所耗時間成本也相對較低。












发表于 2017-1-16 22:36 | 显示全部楼层
全是E文,看不懂,楼主能否解说一下?
发表于 2017-1-16 22:47 | 显示全部楼层
丙酮高度易燃性,还是踏踏实实热转吧
发表于 2017-1-17 00:49 | 显示全部楼层
很好,哪天试下。谢谢
发表于 2017-1-17 08:44 | 显示全部楼层
我就是激光打印机打印到铜版纸上,电熨斗加热。
发表于 2017-1-17 11:19 | 显示全部楼层
学习下下下下
发表于 2017-1-17 13:02 | 显示全部楼层
矿坛看到的吧,我刚才也找到了。

好像不太容易成功,对打印机碳粉要求较高,不是每种碳粉都可以。
发表于 2017-1-17 13:05 | 显示全部楼层
那边有人简单翻译了一下:

原理大致是这样:
1、乙醇既能溶于水又能溶于有机物质,但不足以软化激光打印机碳粉,让它从纸上脱落转吸附到覆铜板上,不过可以浸泡软化纸张;
2、丙酮既能溶于水又能溶于有机物质,可以软化激光打印机碳粉,让它从纸上脱落转吸附到覆铜板上,但高浓度丙酮会把碳纸粉溶成一摊黑糊;
3、把丙酮-乙醇按照一定比例调和后使用,降低了丙酮的溶解效力,可以确保既能软化激光打印机碳粉,让它从纸上脱落转吸附到覆铜板上,又不会把碳粉溶成一摊黑糊;
4、在水里泡过后,纸就可以剥离,碳粉就留在覆铜板上了。
8:3的容积比是原作者反复实验得出的最佳值。


Heatless (cold) Toner Transfer (for PCB)

Preface
Toner transfer tecnique for making PC boards is really practical and economical. The use of heat for transfering is not. Large boards expand with heat and toner does not adhere uniformly mainly because heat is applied to the paper side and not to the toner contacting the copper below. In this video I will describe a very simple technique I've been using for over 15 years. It is very fail-proof and involves the use of only 2 very common chemicals: Ethylic alcohol and Acetone. Alternatively to Acetone you can use Toluene or Xylene, (proportions may vary)

How It Works
1) ALCOHOL
In this experiment you can see that Alcohol is absolutely neutral to Toner and paper.
2) ACETONE
Here you can see that ACETONE (pure) dissolves the toner immediately. Paper remains unaffected.
By mixing Acetone and Alcohol in precise proportions, you will obtain a solution which will SOFTEN the toner enough to make it "STICKY" but not dissolve or blur.
Experimenting, I found this "magic" number to be:
8 parts Alcohol 3 parts Acetone
some toners may require a higher acetone ratio
You can store the solution in an airtight container. If it is a plastic one it should be made of HDPE (high density polyethilene) which is unaffected by ACETONE. Acetone is much more volatile than alcohol so exposing the solution to air will decrease its concentration.

Procedure
Clean the copper surface of the board with steel wool and water as you normally do. Rinse with water and dry with kitchen paper.
Spray board and LASER print with alcohol and wipe with kitchen paper. This will remove any oil and fingerprints. Do not touch.
Pour a small quantity of acetone-alcohol solution on the copper side of board. Spread uniformly with fingertipLfclean!).
Acetone is much more volatile than felcohol so these steps should be performed as quickly as possible, or acetone will lose concentration.
Place the print on the board and quickly position it in place avoiding perpendicular pressure. Once jn place, gently push down (no pressure yet) until the entire print is in contacting the solution.
Wait 5-10 seconds before applying firtal pressure. During this time ACETONE is reacting wttfi the toner, rendering it sticky.
Now give a perpenclicular pressure (na horizontal shift) firmly with the aid of kitchen paper for even distribution.
wait 2 or more minutes until all solvents are totally volatilized.
Dip the board in water for at least 2 minutes. Time may vary, depending on th^ paper used I use        coated paper. Don't use transparency papers it won't allow for proper evaporation of solvents.
Carefully peel the paper off the board starting from a corner.
You can see there is absolutely no toner on the paper, It's all on the copper
For larger PC boards I place the board laser print between 2 blocks of wood, and press together with a C-Clamp. I add a few layers of kitchen paper between print and wood to distribute pressure evenly.

Subscribe
For board etching, use your favorite technique. My favorite is the Sponge & Ferric-Chloride one I believe it's the most economical (very small quantity of etchant) and fast (you can actually see the progress).

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